Major Upgrades Coming To Long Lake Provincial Park

New Parking Area
     No more pulling over in sketchy areas not meant for parked cars to get your canoe or kayak into Long Lake Provincial Park.  Atlantic Developments, Polycorp, the government of Nova Scotia, with consultations from the volunteer group the Long Lake Provincial Park Association  have teamed up to build proper access off of Northwest Arm Drive, along with a 5km trail system extending from Old Sambro Road to a loop around Witherod Lake. (Have a look at my map for reference).

New 60 car parking lot

     Those of us who have been clamoring for a safe and easy place to park to get access to the lake will only have to wait until late April for that wish to come true.  The parking area which is designed for 60 vehicles will be at the end of a short driveway, set back from the road to "maintain the natural esthetics of the area".  The look-off park area on Old Sambro Road across from Dentith Road will also have its own new parking spaces.

    As for the trails, they more or less augment existing trails and paths.  There will be 5 kilometers of trails from Old Sambro Road to the Witherod Lake Loop.  The existing trails will be upgraded to a 4 meter wide gravel pathway with minimal grades making it fully accessible.  Woodchips alongside the parking lot and trail will help buffer the industrial look. Picnic areas, benches, outhouses, doggie bags, garbage cans and other overdue improvements were also part of the plan.
Witherod Lake

     The project was made possible by a $600,000 investment from both developers. The LLPA volunteer group will be managing the project after it is complete with the assistance of a $40,000 provincial grant.

    This is a good example of developers, volunteer organizations and government coming together to improve access and accessibility to our amazing and under-appreciated natural areas.  It's no coincidence this area is directly across from the companies newly developed Long Lake Villages, but in this case I think everyone benefits.  It's too bad a similar approach wasn't brokered during the destruction of the Whopper Trail in Bayers Lake.

     H.R.M. is undertaking an alignment study of the Northwest Arm Greenway project which proposes connecting Long Lake Provincial park with the Chain Of Lakes Trail via Northwest Arm Drive and St. Margaret's Bay Road.

References: Councillor Linda Mosher via Halifax Citizen
   
   

Snowshoeing for Beginners

 
   If you've never tried snowshoeing before, you're missing out.  If you like hiking, but do a lot less of it in winter, snowshoeing is the answer to get you back outdoors.  It's fantastic exercise, and a simple way to get out and explore what makes winter enjoyable.  The great thing about snowshoeing is that there isn't a steep learning curve, so anyone can jump right into it.  That being said, there are a few things to consider before heading out for the first time:



1) Gear  You don't need to spend hundreds of dollars on top of the line snowshoes.  The basic components you're going to want to look for include bindings that fit well, don't slip off and won't break easily.  There is nothing worse than  stopping to fiddle with your bindings every few minutes.  Something that adjusts easily and is going to stay on no matter what you encounter should be your #1 priority.  Next you'll want poles.  Poles help you balance when you encounter uneven terrain, and help you stride more efficiently on flat areas.  Adjustable poles are key.  Being able to quickly adjust the length of the poles is an important feature. You'll want to adapt the length of the pole to the kind of terrain you're encountering.  Longer poles are good for flat ground and shorter ones are good for digging in and pushing off of uneven and hilly terrain.  Next you'll want something that supports the proper amount of weight.  Snowshoes are rated by weight.  You should factor in your typical backpack weight along with your body weight when you are buying.  See this article on how to choose the right ones.  You'll likely want to buy something with a higher weight rating than you think you need.

2) Locations  As a rule of thumb, most places you would normally hike, are usually good places to snowshoe.  It's important to consider how well used the trails are (the more people on the trails, the more the snow is packed down, making snowshoes rather useless). Fresh snow is ideal, but fresh snow also makes it harder to find the trails you would otherwise easily identify. Paying attention to navigation becomes more important.  Hiking through brush, dead fall and rocky areas can be a pain in the butt, and doing it with snowshoes only makes it harder.  If lakes are frozen (15cm thick or more) they can be ideal areas to snowshoe.  Be sure to check your local ice thickness reports before attempting any lake crossings.   A trail with a lake that you would normally navigate around now becomes a snowshoeing highway, allowing you to explore all kinds of different areas.  Exploring across lakes and using them as a shortcut is perhaps my favourite part of snowshoeing.  For info on snowshoeing in Nova Scotia see my Winter Activities Page.

3) Kinetics Snowshoeing is not simply hiking with snowshoes on.  There are a few things that you have to do to become proficient.  Using your poles is key for balance and striding efficiently.  Using the ice picks on the bottoms of your snowshoes, especially on the balls of your feet is key to climbing hills.  Resisting the urge to go uphill flat footed is important.  Going down hill is sometimes counter intuitive to what you would normally do when hiking.  Sometimes you need to use the picks on the balls of your feet to dig in, which can result in a face plant if you're not using your poles properly.  Going down flat footed can turn into an unanticipated black diamond ski run as your snowshoes lose grip and function (poorly) like skis.   Snowshoeing is a great workout for every muscle in your legs, especially your calves as you dig your toes into icy hills, and your thighs as you steady yourself going downhill.  Stretching and warming up will definitely pay off. For more detailed information on the techniques of snowshoeing, check out this article on Snowshoeing Basics.

4) Clothing  You may be heading out in bone chilling cold, but it won't take long before your body is overheated and sweating (your nemesis in cold weather).  You'll want to layer up and have a backpack to put your unused layers in.  It's usually best to start off wearing less clothes than you think you need. It's better to put up with a couple minutes of being cold, knowing that your body temperature is going to skyrocket as soon as you start moving.   Start off with minimal layers, and add them if needed as you go.  You'll want to avoid sweating and having wet clothes at all costs.  Wetness against your skin can make your body temperature plummet to dangerous levels as soon as you slow down or stop.  Layering your socks is a good idea too.  Start with a base layer to keep blisters and moisture in check, and add an insulating layer on top.  You're bound to end up with your butt in the snow at some point, so you'll want a pair of waterproof/breathable shell pants.   Your extra layers should be in your backpack and put on right away during any breaks.  Sealing in the warmth your body has built up will keep you comfortable as your body temperature drops rapidly in winter conditions.  If managed properly you'll hardly ever be too cold or too hot.  You'll be surprised at how you don't even notice the cold that you otherwise wouldn't tolerate.

5) Water And Food  Even though it's cold, you'll still need plenty of water.  Modern hydration packs can work seamlessly with your backpack to make carrying and drinking the water much easier.  You'll also be burning a lot more calories than hiking.  Having food/snacks (think; fuel) is more important when you're snowshoeing. You need to provide the extra calories your body needs to keep you warm and energetic.  Along with your extra layers, packing water and food is important. You can get extravagant by packing a small backpacking stove and enjoy a nice hot chocolate, coffee or fuel up with some warm oatmeal.  These breaks will be better than anything Starbucks or Tim Hortons can offer!

     Snowshoeing is a great activity to get you outside and actually enjoying Winter, while whipping you into shape.  Get out there and start exploring!


5 Best New Years Day Hikes In Halifax


    A polar bear swim isn't the only new years hangover-curing outdoor experience.  Check out these suggestions of places to help you recover from the sins of last night/year.



Charlies Lake Lookoff
5) Charlies Lake Trail.  New Year's redemption can be found overlooking Charlie's lake. A short, but rugged 1km hike from the parking lot at Maskwa Aquatic club, leads to a spectacular place of rejuvenation. Re-fill your lungs with certified fresh organic 2016 oxygen along the steep rocky shoreline.

4) Shubie Park.  If you're in the Dartmouth area, heading to Shubie Park is your best option for a place to be seen being "just great, thanks!" (as your grimace turns into a smile).  Sure last night was a rough one, but you're still out getting exercise and seizing the new year!  ( Check out the map to find a route length that accommodates your stomach condition).

3) Point Pleasant Park. Get off on the right foot by raising your pulse in Halifax's heart.  Give a fist bump, or subtle wink and nod to any fellow party revellers who also opted for nature over nurture for the first day of 2016.

2) Long Lake Provincial Park.  If you want to get away, but just far enough that no one will notice that you look like an extra from "The Walking Dead",  explore Long Lake Provincial Park.  You can find plenty of places off the beaten path to ponder all of the amazing things you will be accomplishing in the new year once you get your voice back.

Herring Cove Lookoff
1) Herring Cove Provincial Park. Sure it might be a little chilly and snowy, but we are in Nova Scotia and nothing rings in a fresh new year like some fresh, cool salty ocean air.   It's a rugged coastal hike, but exploring this place is just easy enough that you don't have to worry about starring in a survival story when you realize your ambition doesn't match your current physiology. Check out a 360 View Here!

Happy 2016!

Spray Paint On White Pine

art

"Spray Paint On White Pine"

VIEWER DISCRETION ADVISED

Today I had a fantastic hike around Susie's Lake.  Happily lost most of the time.  Towards the end of the hike I came to a spot I was familiar with, near the look off and the prettiest part of the area.  I was appalled to see some terrible spray paint on one of my favourite trees.  As I shook my head in disgust, I noticed a plaque on the tree.  I read it, and my disgust very quickly changed to heavy laughter. Easily the funniest thing I have ever seen in the woods (Click photo to expand):
"Spray Paint On White Pine"
Susies Lake Info (Including Map): http://www.halifaxtrails.ca/index_files/SusiesLake.htm

Outdoor Recreation Is Blooming In Clayton Park

Dog parks, walking trails, sports fields, and active transport.

The Halifax Mainland Common, located in Clayton Park, has been recently upgraded.  Back in January, the city moved to replace off-leash dog facilities from Africville Park to a different location.  After consultations with a very engaged public, the Halifax Mainland Common was chosen as the site for the new facility.  Off-Leash parks are a rarity in Halifax so it was a gap that needed to be filled.  Not only does this site fill that gap, it has now become the centerpiece of an area blooming with recreation options.  From the design of the entry gates, to the fresh water dispensers the dog park gets an "A" grade in just about every aspect.  Separate fields for large and small dogs, a wooded trail section, a sheltered area, bag dispensers, garbage cans and a large parking area are reflections of a well executed plan.  

The dog park is only the newest addition to the Mainland Common.  The walking trails have been around for years, and have been constantly improved upon, thanks to the Halifax Northwest Trails Association.  They have spearheaded efforts to add interpretive signage, as well as improving and maintaining the trail with boardwalks, foot bridges.  The main loop is now lined with soft mulch, making it as aesthetically pleasing as it is soft on the feet.  A boardwalk and look-off in the unique bog habitat provides a great area to spot many different types of plants, wild flowers, insects and birds.  Chock full of pitcher plants and huckleberry bushes, there are plenty of plants and birds which are rarely seen in an urban setting. Recommended:  "Trees and Shrubs of the Maritimes", "Birds of Nova Scotia" and reading the interpretive signs along the way.

Activities don't stop with nature walking.  There is a very well maintained, dirt infield, public baseball field as well as the BMO Soccer Centre and Canada Games Centre.  The Common is also accessible via the Halifax Mainland North Linear Parkway, an active transport route that connects it to many other parks and places of interest.  The Lacewood bus terminal currently under construction will also help the accessibility.  When you look at the larger picture of how the various ball fields, parks, trails and facilities tie into each other you can start to see a cohesive active transportation and recreation area that the city could use a lot more of.   
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10 Must-Do Outdoor Destinations For Spring

This time of year, especially after the cruel joke of a Winter we have had to endure, it's almost imperative to be enlightened by Nova Scotia's great outdoors.  It's easy to have logic outweighed by ambition so take it slow, and as Frankie MacDonald says best; be prepared! Check out some tips here first.  The Victoria Day weekend is a perfect time to kick start a new year full of outdoor adventures, so here's a top 10 list to get you started:

10) Belchers Marsh Park.  This little oasis in the heart of Clayton Park may seem very un-assuming at first, but once you walk around you'll appreciate the quaint urban setting.  This unique spot is a major gathering place for all kinds of different birds and waterfowl.  If you stick around long enough you're bound to see some kind of bird you've never seen in the city before.  Stop to read about the nature and the history of the area, with signs courtesy of the Halifax NorthWest Trails Association.  At about 1.5km, a full loop on its gravel pathway can be accomplished pretty easily, making it an ideal stroll with kids.  Video

9) Fleming Park.  What Haligonian doesn't love Fleming Park?  Saying you don't like Fleming Park is like saying you hate Point Pleasant Park, which is enough to get you deported.  Whether it's a picnic, a jog, a paddle or some good old fashioned gallivanting, this place is amazing in the Spring.  Seeing everything starting to bloom at Fleming Park, makes it no wonder why it's such a popular place for weddings.  I think every Haligonian is married to Fleming Park.  Video

8) Point Pleasant Park. Each change of season means it's time for another visit to Point Pleasant Park.  You can almost see the heart of Halifax beating here.  I sometimes think that the mood of the city is a reflection of the current climate at Point Pleasant Park.  It's ideal for Jogging, walking, catching, throwing, pondering and most other verbs. Video

7) Herring Cove Provincial Park Reserve.  It may be a little early to spend a lot of time taking in views of the chilly Atlantic coastline, but if  you're a true  Nova Scotian, there's never an unacceptable time to head to the coast.  Bring extra layers, and be cautious on the wet rocky terrain.  The area stretches for about 1.5km so its' short enough to head back if things get chilly, or if your body betrays you.  Scampering along the coast here can make anyone feel like they could have been an expert rock climber if they chose to.  Ditch your cross-fit class and get your exercise here in nature's yoga studio. Video

6) Hemlock Ravine Park.  It has a heart shaped pond.  This area has been loved since Halifax's early days.  What's not to love about old-growth forest minutes from downtown Halifax? If you love Point Pleasant Park, you'll love the sans-coastline version of it too.  The ravine itself is pretty cool, and the trails are exactly like what you see at Point Pleasant.  Ideal for strolls with loved ones.  You could become another chapter in Fleming park's amorous history by proposing marriage next to the heart shaped pond. Get married at Fleming Park, have photos taken at Point Pleasant and accomplish the Halifax relationship trifecta.  Or you could just go and appreciate the absolute jewel we have here.  Video

5) Blue Mountain hiking trail.  This one requires some navigation and hiking prowess.  The area is always in flux with logging and development, so some roads and paths may lead you in the wrong direction.  Nonetheless, making it atop Blue Mountain is spectacular.  If you've never been, you're probably unaware that Halifax has such high vantage points of the peninsula.  It can be windy up there so dress accordingly, and bring some binoculars to have a look around.  Video

4) Chain Of Lakes/ B.L.T. Trails.  If you have something that has wheels and is powered by human kinetics, go take it for a rip on this converted railway trail system.  The Chain Of Lakes Trail is paved, so possibilities abound.  The B.L.T. trail is gravel.  Have a look at the maps and plan how far you want to go.  This is quickly becoming an active transportation highway, so follow the rules of the road.  Perfect excuse to dust off that new fitness tracker you got for Christmas and never learned how to use.  Video

3) Musquodoboit Trailway.  This area is for the experienced and the fit.  If you love being challenged on your hikes, this is the place to go.  The old adage that good things come with hard work is proven here.  Another one of those spots that you'll wonder how you never knew about it if you've never been.  Bring a camera and a lunch. Video

2) Polly's Cove.  If you've spent more than an hour in Nova Scotia, it usually means you've been to Peggy's Cove.  Rightfully so. It's absolutely beautiful. If you can't take a photo that gets at least 10 "likes" there, you obviously need a new camera.  What's lesser-known is the nearby hiking trails of Polly's Cove.  If you want a different perspective on Peggy's Cove, head there.  You get all the benefits of Peggy's Cove (astounding coastal beauty) without the crowds.  Peggy's Cove looks just as cool from a distance. Bring binoculars and a camera with a zoom.  You'll see the area in a way you haven't seen it before. Video

1) Kearney Lake Trails.  This area is set to become part of one of the most spectacular urban parks in North America.  Haven't been there? Go.  Here's a few reasons why: 1) If you've ever been to Kejimkujik National Park, you'll be astounded to see the same kind of setting right here in our backyard.  Pristine un-touched lakes, surrounded by old-growth forest. It's something you'd normally have to drive hours to find. 2) In the Spring, without full foliage, it's easier to navigate.  For the same reason, you have more views of the lakes.  3) Unbeatable authentic hiking experience.  If you appreciate a raw, natural hike, this place has everything you've been looking for. Video

This list could easily contain many other places, and the order is merely a formality. The important thing is to get outside and get acquainted with the assets that make Halifax such a unique city.  Don't forget to share your experiences with us on Facebook and Twitter (@halifaxtrails)

Journey Into the Tobeatic Wilderness

Inspired by the book "The Tent Dwellers" and our love for Kejimkujik National Park, and with persuasion by budget cuts to our national parks, we planned our longest and most challenging trip yet.  While we were OK with the challenge, we really didn't have any choice for our May 11th trip since the budget cuts dictate that the park not open for overnight use until May 18th.  Our trip would take us through the park by day, to our evening destination, Granite Lake Falls, which lies outside of the park, in the Tobeatic Wilderness Area.


To say this trip would be our longest and most challenging to date is a bold statement coming from guys who have pulled overnighters in the Enfield wilderness mid-winter, and been caught on many trails with more kilometres than sunlight would allow.  As in the book, we knew we were heading into a very remote area of Nova Scotia, where not many people ever visited.

As planning for the trip took place, the first thing that jumped out at me was a 2.4km portage.  Anyone who has spent much time on a treadmill, or doing normal walking or jogging of any sort knows that 2.4km is no big deal.   Someone who has spent numerous summers in the woods lugging trees into places that are so remote that humans felt we could quietly annihilate the area without anyone being the wiser, knows differently. 2.4km through the woods with full gear, and canoes equals a significant mental and physical test.  Though many people may have tried to plot an alternate route, manly men like us very foolishly welcomed the challenge.

The week leading up to the trip was beautiful.  Spring had sprung much earlier than usual, temperatures in the 20's, sunshine everyday.  Glancing at the forecast on Thursday, the cloudy rain icon for Friday, Saturday and Sunday looked overly pessimistic.

As 5am intruded, the alarm went off, and a feeling similar to Christmas morning mixed with pre-game butterflies crept into my stomach.  The drive from Halifax took us enough time to arrive just as the sun had risen.  Rain seemed to hold off the entire drive, and even had some promises of sun.  Things looked good through the windows of the car. As soon as we arrived and started to unpack the car, we were immediately introduced to Kejimkujik's most prevalent spring time inhabitants; black flies. Good thing we all packed bug spray we thought to ourselves, but from my past tree planting experience I knew that a scourge may await us.


As we filled and balanced our canoes with our heavy packs and coolers we were goaded by the flies to launch sooner than later. When we launched the canoes, and escaped the flies, the skies let out a little chuckle in the form of constant light rain, that would not stop for the majority of the journey.

The trip involved paddling across 6 lakes, and pack muling our way through 5 portages. The first 2.4km portage was expected to be a killer and in that respect, it did not disappoint. In fact, not only was it a killer, but it was almost a trip finisher.  With the amount of gear we had to carry, and the 2 canoes, we would have to make 2 trips each way, 1 with the boats and 1 with the gear.  Just walking the portage one way with no gear took close to 30 minutes, so this whole ordeal was going to take much longer than we had planned. 2.5 hours later, as the kids say: "things got real" .  We were much further into the day than we had allotted and at this pace, to escape the park was going to take us past sun down.  Turning back was not discussed out loud, and the motivational fire had been lit.  We pressed on, making very good time paddling, knowing the extensive paddling were jabs, and the portages were body punches to our breaking points.

The second portage surprised us by being extremely long and difficult as well.  We were less mentally prepared for this one, and on any other trip this would be remembered as an excruciatingly difficult one.

As we continued on, the rain lifted and sun began to peak out, as if to point to its wrist watch.  It was clear it was now going to be a race to reach our destination before dark.  We made really good time paddling, and faced the final, short portages with confidence. The last couple were just a short limp, stagger and a shout from point A to Point B on the map.   Of course they came in the form of steep hills, as mother nature took on the role of personal trainer instructing us to do as many lunges as we could handle.

We arrived at the camp site area at a perfect time, as there was still sunlight left. When we arrived in the area where we had planned to camp, all we could see was brush. It was pretty much the worst camping terrain possible.  Then we noticed a marker on a tree across the river, and the camping oasis was revealed. The whole trip had been a big test of our limits, and the main motivator was the remote paradise that we were sure to reach at the end.  The site was perfect, right off of the river and protected well by the trees.  As we docked the canoes, we quickly realized that our camping paradise was more like an insect ridden dystopia.

Stopping to take a deep breath resulted in a mouth full of flies.  There was no time to savour our accomplishments and it was immediately apparent that there was a new battle to be fought.  Setting up our tents and quickly starting a fire to rebuff our new adversaries was priority number one.

There was a great fire pit there constructed by previous visitors, so starting the fire was quick and easy despite the relentless onslaught.  As the flames rose, we expected the flies to bow down to the bigger men that we were.  They did not.  From my experience, fire keeps flies at bay, but in keeping with the trip's theme of consternation, this was not the case.  Fly spray has no effect when facing such a merciless plague. To escape, one would have to decide between sticking their head in the fire, experimenting with smoke inhalation, jailing in a tent, or just resigning themselves to their calamine lotion fate.

The cooler evening air, and our tents provided some relief, though masses of flies would invade our strongholds any time the screened gates were opened.  Despite the obstacles, it was great to be where we were.  Far from civilization, in an area where not many people ever go, gives you a feeling like no other.  Being surrounded and engulfed by nature puts you in your proper place.  The massive sky full of stars gives you a feeling of vertigo that you do not experience with the our modern, light-saturated skies.  As you take in the vast expanse of stars you never usually see, you feel as though gravity might cease and you could fall into space.  Experiences like this make the entire trip well worth it.

The next day was a free day for us, and the weather was fantastic.  It was supposed to be a relaxing fun day of exploring. The flies had other ideas.  We walked down the river to explore, and came across a weathered sign dated 1997. It explained  the history of the area and even mentioned the Tent Dwellers book.  Further down the river we encountered a very old tin sign which succinctly read "WARNING. SANCTUARY.  PROSECUTED".  A simple warning from the era of The Tent Dwellers.  In the early 1900s when the book was written, the area was a game sanctuary.  Kejimkujik was not a national park, and the entire area was just untamed wilderness where only the very bold dared to venture. The game sanctuary then evolved into a wildlife sanctuary in 1968, and later into a protected wilderness area.


While our exploration was short, it was enjoyed and helped make all the travels almost worth it.  When I stopped to take some pictures of the river, I wiped hordes of flies off my lens and dropped the lens cap.  As I looked down for the cap I noticed some bugs crawling on my shirt.  Ticks.  A new insect had joined the fray, just when we thought nothing on earth could be worse than black flies. We now had to adapt our defences to include checking each other for ticks, like scenes from a bad horror movie where everyone is afraid to suffer bites from infectious zombies.

That night, the rain kicked in again. It started with a slight drizzle, then formed into a steady rain. We quickly put up an "A" frame tarp over our sitting area near the fire so that we could rejoice in our reprieve from the flies.  When the time came to retire to our tents and rest up for the horrific journey back the next morning, the rain really picked up and thoughts quickly turned to the quality of our tents.  I had silicone sprayed mine the night before and gave myself a pat on the back. Soon the rain was coming down so hard that the structural integrity of the tent was coming into question and the limits of silicone spray were being put to the test.  Next, lightning lit up the pitch blackness of the night, followed by some murmurs of thunder. The thunder slowly became louder until the point where there was a clap so loud that it was exactly like standing next to the noon gun on Citadel Hill as it is fired.  The concussion impacted my body like a swift kick, and the acoustics provided by the surrounding environment were unlike anything I'd ever heard. It was fantastic, as long as my tent continued to resist the torrent, and we didn't become one of the odds defiers who get struck. No one slept that night and every few minutes you would see a flashlight turn on to inspect the seams of the tent, followed by some choice words and phrases.  With all the rain falling, combined with the many drinks enjoyed earlier in the night,  a new problem cropped up.  Going outside of the tent was out of the question, as you would be quickly submerged.  Now there were many reasons to hope the storm would stop, which it did not until around 7am.

We were lucky that the torrential rains stopped when they did, because the long journey ahead required a large portion of the day to have good enough weather for travel.  The skies still looked charged, but we had no choice and had to set out post-haste.  The race was on against the weather, and if it turned ugly again, we would have to face the reality of having to camp out for another soggy night with limited food and water (in the park, and face a hefty fine, thanks to the Harper government's cuts).  Luckily the weather held off and we did not face any of the notoriously tough headwinds that some of the lakes can have.  We made it back in very good time, bodies battered, mental and physical limits fully tested.

During our trip it was hard to really enjoy many moments due to the many obstacles we faced.  Looking back on any difficult journey is always a motivator for the future. It instills new confidence that your mental and physical limits are higher than you ever hoped to discover.  What doesn't kill you, only makes you itchy.

View Kejimkujik Photos Here
View the Trip Video Here.

Duncan's Cove

My latest excursion was to a place that I had heard good things about but never been.  With a new camera begging to be taken on a tour. I decided to check it out.

 The trail, like many throughout the province, is not marked or signed very well. Once you pull onto Duncan's Cove Road, there is no hint of where the trail is other than a small gravel parking area on the side of the road near a private access road entrance. I guessed that this was where we enter even though it looked a bit sketchy.


 Right away as you walk down the main road toward the private road you get to see a glimpse of the great views you are about to encounter. The unique community of houses are also blend of classic nova Scotia coastal communities and modern architecture. The first few hundred meters might seem as though you are trespassing but once you reach the top of the hill, the beautiful rugged coastline and the rest of the trail become visible. It is a great example of some of the hidden gems that are everywhere in the province. The coastal views are as good as it gets. For a short day hike which isn't a far drive from Halifax, you'd be hard pressed to find a better spot than this.

 It was late august and the blueberry bushes which saturate the coastal Barrens were in full bloom. A few seconds of foraging bore a handful of delicious Huckleberries. My sister in law later visited here with my nephews and I received some fantastic arctic blueberry jam! (Recommended reading: "Field Guide to Edible Plants in Eastern and Central North America")

 There are a couple of world war one era lookouts which mark roughly the mid point and end point of the trail. When I reached the first lookout which only took about 30 minutes I felt like there was no need to go any further, as the views here were spectacular. My stop here probably added 20 minutes to the trip but I would advise others to do the same. I'm sure that spotting whales from here can be achieved with the proper amount of dedication and daydreaming.

 The second leg of the journey includes some really great rock climbing opportunities and great spots to watch the powerful surf up close (caution strongly advised). The trail gets more rugged toward the end and there is potential for a catastrophic fall in a couple of places if you aren't paying attention. These dangers are to be considered if you bring kids along but otherwise add to the character of the trail.

 The second lookout marks the end of the trail and again the views are spectacular. Green rocky barrens stretch as far as the eye can see to the west, blue skies and ocean as far as you can see to the east. Another great example of modern architecture lies further down the coast on what has to be one of the nicest dwellings in the province. I'm not sure which aspect of this place is the most impressive: the house, the pool, the property, or the immense rock wall surrounding the property.




 After this point the trail ends and you must turn back around and head back the same way you came. Usually I'm not a big fan of linear pathways and prefer looped trails but in this case there is so much scenery to take in, that doubling back isn't a chore.

 All in all this was another unexpectedly spectacular day trip even to someone who was born and raised in Halifax but had never been.  I recommend it to anyone who wants to see one of Nova Scotia's greatest coastal landscapes. You can snap some great photos, get back to your childhood rock climbing days, breathe in some fresh ocean air while getting top quality exercise....and end up with some fresh blueberry jam! 


For more detailed info on Duncan's Cove, visit my website.

The Fuss Over Coyotes

     Based on the tragic incident that occured in Cape Breton 3 years ago, there has been much attention and discussion paid to coyotes in Nova Scotia.  I often dismiss many of the stories I read in the local news about coyotes, as a topic that the media has jumped on-board with to grab people's attention whether warranted or not.  To me, one very tragic incident throughout the coyote's history of living in Nova Scotia, doesn't seem to warrant all of the negative press they now receive.  Or is it warranted?  I decided to delve into the topic more deeply.

     Recently I went on a hike with my brother and nephews (age 5 and 4) to Blue Mountain.  I figured the hike wasn't too lengthy or difficult for small children to do, and most of the path is well-travelled.  Our Sunday outing was quickly brought to an end as we encountered a sign that said DO NOT ENTER warned of coyote traps ahead.  Disapointed, we headed back for the car, as we weren't going to take any chances with young children.  From previous trips to the Blue Mountain trail, I saw that it is a very popular area for locals to walk their dogs, and I imagine that coyote traps have got to be a pretty bad thing to put in an area frequented by dogs.  So why the frenzy over coyotes? Are they really that dangerous? What exactly is being done about them? And why are they now such a concern? 

History: The Eastern Coyote was first recorded in Nova Scotia in 1977 and is the newest large mammal on the scene.  Their migration to Nova Scotia was the result of habitat change, forcing them to find new territory.  It didn't take very long for coyotes to be wide-spread in the province due to their diverse diet and ability to adapt. 

Eastern Coyote Bio:  Average  Male= 34 pounds, Female=24 pounds. Typically larger than western coyotes due to their distinct genetics from past inter-breeding with wolves. Average litter: 5-6 pups. They hunt in family units or packs. Diet consists of deer, mice, squirrels, snowshoe hare, fruit, and excellent at scavenging. Can live in urban areas. 
Facts: There are no reported cases of Coyotes carrying rabies in Nova Scotia.  There has been one fatal attack on a human by a Coyote in Nova Scotia, the only other incident was recorded in California in 1981.  There are 3 records since 1995 of people bitten or attacked in Nova Scotia.  Since 1994 there have been 24 recorded human-coyote interactions resulting in injury (14% of all reported human-coyote incidents). Coyotes, like most other wild animals in Nova Scotia, prefer to avoid human contact. 

     Given this info, why the uproar about coyotes? Was that one tragedy a completely isolated, freak incident, or is there a real issue here?  The government quickly responded by hunting down and shooting the coyotes responsible for the attack, and examining them for evidence of rabies or other reasons as to why these coyotes would be particularly aggressive.  Rabies was not found, and it is thought that the coyotes may have just been very desperate for food, causing the out of character behaviour. 

     The result of the incident was widespread coverage in the media about coyotes in Nova Scotia.  Whether it was possible sitings of the animals in rural areas, incidents being reported much more readily, or discussion about a cull, the coyote had earned an infamous spotlight. After the widespread media coverage and pressure from the public, the government of Nova Scotia instituted a cull  in 2010 and again in 2011.  The cull was part of a new 4 step plan to control aggressive coyotes which also includes a biologist to study human-wildlife conflict, training more trappers, providing a pelt incentive, and increasing education about the animal.

     It is yet to be determined what effect the government's new approach towards coyotes has had, but that doesn't stop media from covering reports of sitings that otherwise wouldn't have been news, and for people to question the merits of instituting a bounty on the animal.   

     From my experience in the woods (4 summers of tree planting in Nova Scotia, and many years spent enjoying the outdoors) I have only seen or heard coyotes  from a distance.  To me,  there is nothing like being in the remote areas of Kejimkujik National Park, at night, watching the sun set over a lake, listening to the loons call, the frogs peep, the owls hoot and the coyotes howl.  It is nature functioning as it should.  Only when human encroachment is put into the mix does the balance get disrupted and problems arise.  I think following the usual rules of entering into the wilderness are all you need: Try not to travel alone, make some noise, carry pepper spray, a knife, or a stick, be aware of your surroundings, treat animals with healthy respect, but realize most of them want to avoid humans as long as they are aware of your presence.

What are your thoughts? Is the uproar about coyotes warranted? Has something changed to make them more agressive? Is the cull necessary? What other approaches could we take? Is this just hypervigilance resulting from one very tragic freak-incident? Please leave your comments below.






Getting to know Hemlock Ravine Park



Chances are if you've never visited Hemlock Ravine Park, or been there once years ago, you are in the majority of HRM residents.  Everyone knows and loves Point Pleasant Park, and the Public Gardens, but Hemlock Ravine is their unassuming, lesser-known cousin.  Most people (like myself) know very little about the park. Some likely don't know of its existence, others may know it exists but are un-sure exactly where it is.  My knowledge stopped at the heart-shaped pond, and the old white round building off of the Bedford Highway. The round house has always had a mystique to me since I was a youngster, perhaps because it is in such an odd spot, or perhaps because the only history I knew of it was that a man once went insane in there because he could not find a corner to pee in (my mother's idea of a history lesson).   I don't think I'm alone in my lack of knowledge about Hemlock Ravine Park, and only recently have I become well acquainted with what is one of the most naturally beautiful parts of the city.  Allow me to (re)introduce you to Hemlock Ravine Park:

Part 1: History: what is that little round white house on the Bedford highway, and who built the heart-shaped pond?

In 1780, Nova Scotia's Lieutenant Governor, John Wentworth resided on the grounds.  Wentworth happens to be the same man who built the current Goverment House on Barrington Street. In 1794, Prince Edward, Duke of Kent arrived in Halifax to command the garrison.  Wentworth then lent the estate to him, where he and his French mistress, Julie St. Laurent lived.  Edward turned the grounds into heavily landscaped pleasure gardens, built ornamental temples, waterfalls, a grotto and a pond (originally larger than the current one, and oval shaped).   The retreat was the social center of the colony for the local elite, and activities included garden parties, picnics, concerts, and winter skating parties on the pond after sleigh rides from Halifax. In 1800, Edward and St. Laurent left Halifax, and the grounds were turned over to Governor Wentworth, who moved out shortly, and the grounds fell into disrepair but remained popular with locals for its natural beauty and ideal setting for a country picnic.  When Prince Arthur (Prince Edward's Grandson) arrived in Halifax in 1869, he re-shaped the pond into its current heart shape, in dedication to the 27 years that Prince Edward and Julie St. Laurent spent together.   By the 1950s, all that remained of the original estate was the muddy pond, and one decorative temple; the round music rotunda.

Part 2: What is so good about it now?

After learning the history, you may think that there is no reason to go there now, as it may have been spectacularly beautiful when it was built, but all that is left is a couple of small reminders.  However, if you want to witness some spectacular gardens all you have to do is visit Halifax's amazing Public Gardens.  If you want to witness some beautiful old, untouched nature, there are very few places in the entire province that you can do this, let alone in the city.  The reason Hemlock ravine is so beautiful now isn't because of anything that The Duke of Kent did, it's what he and the early settlers of Halifax didn't do that make the park the gem it is today.  Since the grounds were protected from the early settlement of Halifax, the trees were not cut down to supply the garrison, unlike the rest of the city (excluding Point Pleasant Park).  While virtually every wooded area in the province has been cut down and re-grown generation after generation, Hemlock Ravine is one of a handful of places where this hasn't happened.  As a result, 300 year old, 80ft Hemlocks can be seen in the park, as well as numerous other flora and fauna that you are unlikely to see elsewhere around the city.  Halifax is known as the city of trees, but to see genuine old growth forest is a rarity throughout the province.. You can visit Hemlock Ravine, quickly forget you are in the city, and be re-acquainted with nature all within a 20 minute drive of most of the HRM. 

Part 3: Nature

The city of Halifax has owned the 200 acre grounds since 1977.  The treasures contained in the park include 300 year old Hemlock trees which grow along the banks of the Ravine.  The Eastern Hemlock tree can live up to 450 years, and can be identified by their droopy, feathery, dark green, flat needle foliage in flat sprays of branches and their unusually small cones.  It was once dominant throughout Nova Scotia, but extensive logging greatly reduced their numbers and all but eliminated old stands. Fortunately, when given the chance, they do re-generate easily.  Hemlocks are considered a soft wood, but are actually incredibly hard.  Natives made a poultice (a medicinal, warm compress) from the inner bark, and early settlers made hemlock tea to induce sweating (not to be confused with the poison that Socrates drank, which is from an un-related herb.)

The undergrowth of the park is not typical of an old-growth forest, there are however small pockets of climax conifer forest of the quartzite barrens.  Look for painted trillium (endangered, do not pick)  in the mossy carpet of the spruce trees in June. Hobblebush grows here, as well as elderberry in the fall. In the northern part of the park, which has been hit by numerous fires in the past, there is a growth of red maple trees. Recommended reading: "Trees And Shrubs Of The Maritimes" 

Animals include red squirrels and white tailed deer. flying squirrels, raccoons, red foxes and owls have also been sited.

Part 4: Go there, explore, enjoy, relax, appreciate, contemplate and be sure to look upward.

Hemlock Ravine Links:  Photos , Videos, Park Info

The Many Charms of Cape Breton

It has been a while since I had last visited Cape Breton, and as the summer wound down, I decided I needed to do a few "summerly" things before the great weather passed without anything significant to remember it by.  My friend's family has a cottage in East Bay, on the Bras D'ors lake, and it had been a couple of years since both he and I visited.

The drive to Cape Breton is always enjoyable in the summer, as the scenery gets progressively better the further you go.  Entering Antigonish County, "the highland heart of Nova Scotia" you begin to get a feel for the highland landscape, and begin to see the Celtic heritage that Nova Scotia is rooted in. Past this point, anywhere you go at any given time, you are likely to hear bagpipes, fiddles and people indulging in a few spirited drinks at a local ceilidh or festival.  

In the words of local Cape Bretoners; the day the Canso Causeway was constructed, was the day that Canada joined Cape Breton.  That statement gives you a perfect insight into the sense of humour and pride present within them all.  To this day, the causeway provides a landmark which crosses into beautiful scenery, great people,  proud culture and storied history. 

The arrival at my friends cottage is met with extreme relaxation and summertime good feelings, and an urge to do absolutely nothing.  Upon arrival in Cape Breton, it is customary to first visit the liquor store, and stock up on Gaelic celebration fuel (beer, whisky and wine).  Once set up at the cottage, all that was left to do was unpack, put beer in the fridge, locate the most comfortable deck chair, and take some deep breaths of the warm salty air.  The Bras D'ors lakes are not what we are used to when we think of lakes.  They are salt water, and the largest of their kind in the world ( According to myself? ).  Boating and swimming in the lake was fantastic, warm like most lakes in August, salty like the ocean, and endlessly large. Since the lake is salt water, many salt water fish live here.  Jigging for cod is something you can't do in any other lake, and something I am equally unsuccessful at regardless of location. 

Our days were spent on and around the lake, exploring islands, swimming, fishing and boating.  The water was as warm as a heated pool, the rugged hills were a deep green, the sky a light blue, and the calm dark waters of the lake reflected a couple of eagles who were cruising with the clouds above.  There was no choice but to be 100% relaxed.  Even the cottage is a thing a beauty. It was built over 200 years ago, by a couple of brothers from New England who ran a farm here in the summers, and returned to new England as ship builders in the winters.  The cottage is constructed just as you would imagine 19th century expert ship builders and master craftsmen would.  The ceilings look like the deck of an old sailing ship, banisters and stairs are made of thick dark wood, each piece of wood hand milled, carved and joints made without glue or nails.  It's not hard to imagine being under sail on the Atlantic, with the smell of the salt water and the look of finely crafted woodwork. 

The evenings were spent in true Cape Breton fashion, enjoying many fine beverages and having nothing but good times.  You don't have to travel far, or travel at all to find a celebration.  If you're lucky you will stumble on a good old fashion Ceilidh, complete with fiddler, bagpipes and a culture of people who have been partying this way since their Gaelic ancestors settled here in the 1700s.   

Waking up after an evening of heavy drinking, to a level which is unacceptable in most social settings, is both expected and embraced in Cape Breton.  In our case we had a miracle, all-natural remedy for hangovers.  A large cool, fresh, waterfall 5 minutes down the road provided an instant cure, and with a bar of soap, I was ready to take on another day.

No trip to Cape Breton is complete without exploring the Cabot Trail and the surrounding Highlands National Park.  The Cabot Trail is a world renowned route, first used by European explorer John Cabot, and now a mecca for people looking for a world-class scenic drive.  You can quickly see how huge the tourism industry is here, but you also quickly see how it is hugely different.  It's easy to see tourist traps and people looking to make a quick buck at any popular destination around the world.  The places are usually run by "friendly" people who are more than happy to take your money.  Cape Breton has no shortage of tourist friendly spots, but these spots are different, and it's the people that make them different.  You begin to realize that the friendliness of the people you encounter is not because they want your money, or because they know you're a tourist and want you to have a good impression.  They'd just as soon have a good conversation or share a joke, and treat you the same way they'd treat locals.  Being genuine is part of the culture here. 

The drive itself is absolutely spectacular, and no videos , photos or descriptions can do it justice.  The large rolling green hills, and the blue ocean, provide some spectacular views.  There is no shortage of fantastic places to eat, shop, golf, hike, and stay along the way, as well as many small towns and communities steeped in Gaelic, Native and Acadian history.  The town of Cheticamp is a great example of the combination of natural beauty, culture, and history boasted throughout Cape Breton. The town itself is surrounded by green mountains, and borders the ocean.  The people are french speaking Acadians, and have managed to hold onto and celebrate their language and culture amid an English speaking province.  (I highly recommend the seafood chowder, while seated on a patio).

Cape Breton once again left me re-aligned.  You really can't go wrong with a spring/summer or fall visit to Cape Breton.  Whether you're looking to hike, camp, drive, bike, kayak, fish, golf, dine, drink, or just explore, this is where you need to go.  Cape Breton is a lot of things to a lot of people, but one thing it is to everyone is beautiful. Cape Breton is equal parts natural and cultural beauty and deserves its designation by National Geographic as one of the top two places in the world for sustainable tourism.

 

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